Thursday, April 6, 2017

Doll's Eye View: Paris F/W17 Trends Part 2

Classics with a twist. Here again, we're talking about Paris fashion at its best with a plethora of classic looks to choose from. For this, part two of Fashion Week, shapes are simple, easy to wear with a few little details to set the style apart from all others. The pictures largely speak for themselves.

Red Alert
The story here is top to toe RED! The girls LOVED these red on red which start with the outfit and is extended down to the toes in matching accessories. Again, silhouettes are simple. It's the monochromatic color scheme that sets this look apart.
I really pushed the red by using my red-headed doll, Brie for this look. This is a classic fitted jacket (I used the sheath dress pattern as the base of Brie's coat). It's worn over a simple, red turtle neck top and a slim pair of stovepipe pants. Over the pant legs, I've attached tubes of red vinyl to finish off the look. However, feel free to choose the coat and pants of your choice. By sticking to a single've got the essence of Riccardo Tisci's final collection for the house of Givenchy.

Autumn Promenade
When it comes to a color palette for Fall/Winter, it's these subtle, slightly greyed tones that give garments a rich urban look. Worth pointing out... shoulders, though not huge, are broader than usual, outer wear is swash-buckling, long, trousers are ample and capes are in! An accessory note: legs are always covered with colored stockings and boots!

Checkered Past
Classic plaids and checks also take center stage for big city wear. There's nothing complicated about  any of these silhouettes. All have been created with basic patterns. In this case, it's the fabric that makes the style. When shopping for fabric, be sure to seek out mini-checks or scaled down plaids. In fact, why not take dolly along with you to the store! Note: more stockings! (You'll want make a few pairs!)

Short Walk to Work
 What's nice about trends this season is that there is something for everybody. My younger dolls (playline Barbies and S.I.S Barbies) aren't so crazy about longer hemlines. They like their fashion short and sweet. Think about short versions of wardrobe classics like rain slickers, bolero jackets over pretty little skirts, mini trenches or coatdresses. Accessory note: over the knee boots! (Don't have the boots--make stocking shoes or spats to slip over regular shoes!)

For Kathy's dolly version of this Longchamp look, I used a faux leather fabric to create the circle skirt because it's thin enough to fall like the human version. (It's a full circle with only one seam.) Her bolero jacket was made from a few small scraps of rabbit (from old mittens). I used the basic coat sloper cut down to waist length for the jacket. The pattern is simple--front, back, and sleeve--with a thin strip of leather folded over and sewn along the edges.

Jackie Oh!!!
With trends resuscitating so many classic looks, it stands to reason that designers would look back at the early 1960's for ideas reminiscent of the Jackie Kennedy era. The shift dress, tent coats and chunky suits with below the knee skirts all fall under the influence!

Clean Break
Winter white remains a strong trend. Hemlines are longer, falling from just below the knee to mid-calf. The girls love these simple looks with "couture" detailing--fringed hemlines, incorporated scarves, tailored jackets and dresses with a bit of draping. And everything takes on a more "high fashion" allure when cut in white!
I'll be honest. I was so fascinated by what I thought was simple dress "with a twist." But simple is rarely easy! This took a good chunk of time, several tries and a bit of fabric just to figure out how the dress might be constructed.  Essentially, this is a wrap dress. One side lays over the other. On (our) right, the pattern is a simple double breasted shift that is tacked to the seam on the opposite side of the body. The left front has extra fabric that swings out from the center front then is draped into soft folds that extend around the body and is caught in the center back seam. I used a bit of hammered wire as a belt to clip around the body. I am very happy with the final result!

Jardin d'Hiver
The girls love the florals showing up for Fall. In this case, we're looking at hand painted floral printed satin and screen printed silk and even Chinese brocades used in simple silhouettes.
Jourdan liked the idea of a cotton shirt worn over brocade pants, an idea with Caribbean roots. I started out with a simple oversized shirt and could have stopped there. But it was not dramatic enough for Jourdan so I stitched another piece of the same cotton around the neck and down the front of the shirt to the waist. It then wraps around and ties in the back. The off the shoulder look is created simply by pushing the skirt off one shoulder and closing the shirt near the bust with a snap. What's nice is that even without styling the doll like this, the shirt still looks when worn normally.

One of the main characteristics of French fashion, is that is has a distinctly feminine look. Frankly, you can't get more girly than ruffles! This season, we see heavy doses of them over tops, cascading down the front or down from waists on dresses, blouses and jackets.

This dress has so many elements in the same design, if not handled well, it could result in "everything & the kitchen sink" look. But it works because of the choice of color and fabric. When choosing a look like this, the trick is to do it in a monochromatic tone. In the original dress, the ruffles are cut on the bias and cascade down from the waist and around the hem. But on the doll, the same ruffle will not fall into soft flounces especially since I used taffeta. To give the illusion of the skirt falling into graceful curves, I had to cheat. I made a wrap skirt then tacked triangles shaped into cones around the edge. On top is an "apron" with smaller strips of fabric shaped into folds and attached to a cummerbund that closes in the back. Should I make this dress again, I'll trim it with classic ruffles.

New Age Princess
These are pretty little looks for a sweet, precious look. These are easy to make: a 2 pc dress with flared skirt, a fitted sheath made from lace, a velvet fitted dress with pirate sleeves worn with or without pants.

Frankly, I was amazed at how easy it was to make this dress using stretch velvet! Giselle's dress was made using the knit dress foundation. I scooped out the front but not as wide as the original dress because I was afraid of it falling off the doll's shoulders and...Giselle didn't want to be so "naked!" The insert is a bit of tulle, folded over and tacked to the lower part of her decollete. As far as the sleeves are concerned...I found a shortcut which I'll share with you in an upcoming tutorial on fancy sleeves.

There was no category for Samantha's Chanel inspired outfit. However, she insisted that we could not do a report on Paris Fashion Week without something from this fashion house, which this season, sent out a collection with a theme based on commercial space travel! It's a wrap skirt and a raglan sleeve double breasted hip length jacket made with silver metallic leather scraps and the wrong side of...sweat socks!

Last stop on the Fashion Month train.....New York! All Abroad!!!!

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  1. I can't wait for the blue velvet sleeve tutorial. Love that look!

    1. BlackKitty, after I finished the dress, I thought to myself...this is a really pretty dress!!! It reminds me of dresses from the late 1960's you find in vintage issues of Mademoiselle Magazine. It's nice to see sleeves again. I think you're going to like that upcoming tutorial.

  2. The last model is like the cherry on the cake. Thanks for many interesting ideas.

    1. Anna, there were so many great ideas on the Paris catwalks that I thought could translate to our dolls' wardrobes! If I didn't impose a deadline on myself, I'd still be sewing!!!

  3. It is amazing how you can beautifully re-create fashions for your dolls. I love them.

    1. Thank you Jaye. When I first started out, I took the easy road by putting in clothes I already had on hand that resembled some of the looks. My thought then was to simply present the trends. But then I really started recreating some of the clothes I liked and felt a real satisfaction. Now, I try to choose garments that present a challenge. And that's where the fun really lies! (And it gives me ideas for future posts.) Glad you enjoy this post.

  4. I am always amazed at your ability to pull of the fashion looks from the runway! Sometimes, I like your versions so much better that the full size versions!

    1. Thank you, Phyllis. It's really funny. There have been times when I didn't like the garment in the photo, but I made it anyway because there was something about it that suggested it might look good on the doll. I have been pleasantly surprised and it gave me a better appreciation for the garment. I might be due to the choice of (human) model and then sometimes, the doll version comes out a little better because it's more simple. I've stripped away elements not essential to the spirit of the look. Anyway, just a thought.

  5. Nie mogę się nadziwić, jak wielka różnorodność tkanin, barw i dodatków może być połączona w jednej kreacji! Jestem pod wielkim wrażeniem tych strojów! Ozdoby, dekolty, futrzane elementy tworzą oryginalne i piękne ubrania!
    Nie jestem odważną krawcową i bałabym się skupiać wszystko w jednym!
    Ty to jednak robisz i tworzysz wspaniałe, piękne i inspirujące kolekcje! Brawo!

    1. Olla wrote:

      I can not help wondering how great variety of fabrics, colors and accessories can be combined in one! I am very impressed with these outfits! Decorations, decolletages, fur elements create original and beautiful clothes!
      I'm not a brave seamstress and I would be afraid to focus all in one!
      But you do it and you create wonderful, beautiful and inspirational collections! Bravo!

      Thank you so much Olla. I let the original designer clothing teach me how to mix and match colors, textures, pattern and print. Same think for those little unexpected details. I've been sewing for a long time so it's nothing special. What I find fascinating is figuring out how these clothes are made just by looking at the picture.
      But you are a master of crochet, an art that takes so much time, talent and patience. It is something I cannot do. I suppose we all have our specialties! Big hugs.

  6. I'm always impressed by these recreations! Great job again! 👍 -DnF

    1. Hi DnF. Thank you so much for your lovely comment. Glad to know you enjoyed this post.

  7. Replies
    1. Thank you, Urszula. Glad to know you enjoyed this post.

  8. I was definitely on your wave length this go round. Every outfit I selected, you made. Awesome. Your Paula Ka dress is on point! And the two Johanna Ortiz outfits are amazing. We really appreciate your talent.

    1. Thank you, Vanessa. I was really inspired by this round of Fashion Weeks. Especially in the case of Paris, there were several more dresses I would have liked to make but at some point, you gotta put down the needle and thread and get the post up! Something tells me we share the same taste in clothes!

  9. I am in love with the red givenchy jacket,your girls always with stunning looks :-)
    Anyway red is one of my fave color <3
    happy easter

  10. Thank you M-C. I loved that whole Givenchy group. Though I didn't have time to make another outfit from this group, I still plan to do a red dress with matching red stockings! Hope your Easter was lovely!

  11. Omgosh, April...I got a little lost spending time on this post! Beautiful. That Paule Ka dress of yours is amazing. Okay, back to DollChat!

  12. Thank you, Jano. Paris was our favorite city this time around which accounts for the large quantity of clothing I made after the fashion week here. I agree, the Paule Ka dress is stunning. But as simple as it appears, it did take me awhile to figure out how to do the asymmetrical look. Not so easy when all you have to go by is a photo of the front!


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